Burger joint’s daily grind is a cut above
It may be tricky to find, but Cut + Grind – on the fringes of the King’s Cross redevelopment – is a revelation
08 March, 2018 — By Tom Moggach
Cut + Grind’s beef and bacon burger – no need for ketchup!
LET’S not mince our words – Cut + Grind is pesky to find. This new restaurant is marooned on the upper reaches of York Way, a stretch studded with hundreds of freshly built high-rise flats. Most are still empty; the lights off. This residential zone, on the fringes of the King’s Cross redevelopment, is still a work in progress. So all credit to Cut + Grind – a brave pioneer in this emerging urban landscape.
Is it worth the trek? At first, I had serious doubts. Cut + Grind specialises in burgers, a concept that is hardly new. Only last week I reviewed The Dartmouth Arms, for example, where burgers are centre stage. What’s unique is how they make them. Cut + Grind claims to be only venue in London that grinds their meat daily on site.
The restaurant is a temple to the burger, with a freakish attention to detail: from the ratio of different cuts minced into each patty to the precise width of the slivers of sweet pickle.
The site is on the ground floor of Urbanest, a modern block offering slick student accommodation. Most of my fellow diners, in fact, had simply taken the lift downstairs – many hugging their MacBooks for company.
The large dining space has an industrial feel, with acres of polished cement and writhing extraction ducts. One wall is neatly tiled in a mosaic spelling “Butcher”.
In pride of place is the meat locker: an illuminated fridge – or shrine – which is home to dangling cuts of prime beef.
On my visit, it was aged British rump, rib and brisket, each with a handy diagram to explain where it’s located on the cow.
Vegetarians should not despair. Meat is worshipped but the vegan (miso-glazed aubergine) and vegetarian (halloumi) burgers are excellent, too.
For the beef burgers, you choose between “Juicy” or “Skinny”, the latter using less fatty cuts of meat.
The classic costs £10 and is a revelation. The depth of flavour and rough-cut texture is a cut above. It’s served with a touch of béarnaise, cheddar, pickles, lettuce and red onion. Maple bacon is an optional extra.
“I’ve zero desire to add ketchup – for the first time in my life,” exclaimed my grinning companion.
All burgers come with excellent fries. Sides include chargrilled broccoli, slapped with chilli and garlic, and halloumi fries served with a minty yoghurt.
Also noteworthy is their range of seltzers: sparkling water infused with natural flavours such as jasmine and lime or fennel and apple.
I left the place somewhat surprised. For now, the atmosphere in this new neighbourhood is muted – but this will improve.
If you like a good burger, the supreme quality of Cut + Grind merits the 10-minute walk from Granary Square.
The chef here just won the title of National Burger of the Year.
If you’re hungry to learn his secrets, Cut + Grind run a £20 masterclass every fortnight.
Cut + Grind Burgers
The Urbanest Building
25-27 Canal Reach, N1C
020 3668 7683