Bringing tasteful change to Finsbury Park
Pasta Remoli – part of the area’s culinary transformation – serves unfussy, democratic food, with something for everyone
12 October, 2018 — By Tom Moggach
Truffle and mushroom ravioli with creamy mushroom sauce
GOOGLE “Savills City North” and you will behold the dazzling future of Finsbury Park.
Up pops the estate agent’s webpage, aimed at property investors in Hong Kong.
This area of north London is on the brink of seismic change. Developers are erecting two vast towers by the tube station – the largest development in the borough since the Emirates stadium. It promises 355 flats and 120,000 square feet of retail, leisure and office space.
For eating out, Finsbury Park is already transformed. Dozens of new places have sprung up in the last few years, with many along Stroud Green Road.
Pasta Remoli, tucked away in a side street, is a definite highlight. This fun and fast family restaurant serves fresh pasta that’s second to none.
It’s a clever and modern concept: you mix and match the pasta shape, sauce and cheese. For example, their pumpkin and potato ravioli with a butter and sage sauce and dusting of Pecorino Romano. The chefs make all their pastas and sauces on site. (Most restaurants buy in their fresh pasta.)
At the back left of the room, admire their state-of-the-art gnocchi and ravioli machines. Downstairs, there are bubbling vats of Bolognese and arrabiata sauces.
I went for lunch, cycling past other local favourites such as Itto and Season Kitchen. The restaurant is right next to the Park Theatre – and a few steps from the building site around Finsbury Park tube.
The interior design is bold and contemporary. Walls are printed with orange graphics. One depicts a witty, wacky pasta machine conveyor belt in the style of Dr. Seuss.
The open plan kitchen is front left, serving up the pasta dishes in three minutes flat. (“Sometimes quicker than Burger King,” boasts the owner.)
We tried three pasta dishes – all near flawless: oxtail agnolotti, a speciality from Rome; truffle and mushroom ravioli smothered in creamy mushroom sauce; pasta alla gricia – a classic sauce made with guanciale (pig’s cheek), white wine, pecorino and twist of black pepper.
This is pasta as it should be – unfussy and of the highest quality.
“We don’t want to end up doing Strada or Jamie Oliver,” says the Roman owner.
Prices are low, too. A large main course pasta dish costs from £8. The posher signature dishes, such as tagliatelle with red prawns, come in around £13-£14.
Pasta Remoli also offers antipasti such as arancini, pan-fried octopus or burrata cheese with Parma ham.
If you’re not in the mood for pasta, you might choose lamb chops, steak or a hearty fish soup. Desserts include a top-notch tiramisu.
I loved Pasta Remoli. This is democratic food, with something for everyone. If I lived nearby, I would eat here several times a week. They also offer take-away pasta to cook at home and online delivery.
As for the City North development, this is a hot topic among local residents. Some regret the low amount of “affordable” housing – a familiar refrain in the capital.
7 Clifton Terrace, N4
0207 263 2948